14 Garrick Street, London, WC2E 9BJ. Tel: 020 7379 1531

 

 

It came as a bit of a surprise, The Forge. I had no idea it was there, nudged up Garrick Street in Covent Garden, and it felt like such a find I assumed it was relatively new, which it isn’t. It’s a stone’s throw from the fumy bustle of St Martin’s Lane and Long Acre, so mark it on your radar for a pre or post-theatre visit, as it’s ideal for that. It’s fairly formal, but with an acquiescent vibe that West End restaurants seem to manage with ease and city restaurants often fall down on, for various reasons that I won’t elaborate on now.

 

 

No stuffy or sultry staff here either, everyone seemed rather relaxed in fact, oozing a quiet and efficient confidence. Warm hospitality on the door from Robert Seigler, the owner (always reassuring to know a proprietor has their finger on the pulse of their business) and a chat at the end with their rather charming chef, (now, they’re a rare breed I can tell you) Andrew Barber, previously at Bleeding Heart among others. He gave me tips on how to cook his Ox Cheek recipe (I’m happy to share them on request); these are the kind of chefs I like, not the cagey, superior type that don’t believe you’re capable of cooking their dishes yourself.

 

 

 

It was quite difficult to choose. This is always a good sign, I think, so when guidance was offered from their knowledgeable PR, Sarah Lewis, we took it and opted for: Seafood salad – fresh, uncomplicated, but just slightly bland for my ‘sock-it-to-me’ taste buds. Impressively served on a dish of ice though, which I thought was a nice touch. Roasted Piemontese pepper with goat’s cheese and anchovy – again, a very simple dish, but proclaimed very tasty by my D.P (dining partner) Clare, who said the anchovy was unusually subtle and didn’t overpower the cheese. Mains were pan-fried sea bass with aubergine & basil risotto. Now, there are two things that I wouldn’t have put together, but Clare loved the combination. The risotto’s aubergine had been infused with cumin seeds; an ever-so-subtle kick that was just the ride that the sea bass was asking for. This was a 5***** piece of fish though in my reckoning, so no rides actually needed.

 

 

 

 

My braised ox cheek with celeriac fondant and roasted parsnips made me very happy and I daydreamed about that succulent, hearty meat in that rich jus for days after. Meanwhile, we knocked back a rather delightful half bottle of San Vincenzo, Monteforte 2008, a seductive little Italian number that convinced us a half bottle was a stupid idea after all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2 course a la carte lunch approx £27.00 excluding service and wine.

Set Lunch & dinner offers available, just check their website for details.